Experience the landscapes, road conditions, local culture, and essential travel tips for a smooth family road trip.
Table of Contents
Main Journey
Early Departure from Antananarivo
At dawn, we set off on a long journey from Antananarivo to Morondava, a city on Madagascar’s western coast. The hotel was kind enough to prepare an early breakfast for us, and the pastries were especially delicious.
When we stepped outside to check out, our driver and guide, Dizzy, was already waiting in front of the hotel. He would be driving nearly 900 kilometers today, making it an exhausting trip. Normally, travelers break the journey in Antsirabe, but we decided to drive straight to Morondava to save a full day.
As soon as we hit the road, we noticed young men running along the streets. At first, we wondered what was so urgent. Dizzy explained that many people in Madagascar cannot afford transportation and rely on running to get around. Many of these young runners were also students preparing for their university entrance exams.
“They run to school every morning,” Dizzy said.
Their determination was admirable.
Fueling Up for the Long Drive
Before sunrise, we stopped at a gas station to fill up the tank of our Hyundai Terracan, a four-wheel drive vehicle we rented for the trip.
Owning a car in Madagascar is a luxury due to high registration fees and expensive fuel. Fortunately, our vehicle ran on diesel, which was slightly cheaper than gasoline.
- Gasoline: 3,800 Ariary per liter (~$1.35)
- Diesel: 3,300 Ariary per liter (~$1.17)
We filled up 60 liters, which cost 200,000 Ariary (~$71).
Since we planned to drive across the country, we roughly calculated our total fuel costs:
- Round trip from Antananarivo to Morondava → 1,800 km
- Estimated fuel consumption → 9 km per liter
- Total fuel cost → Around 223,400 Ariary (~$80)
Adding additional trips to Kirindy Forest and Andasibe National Park, we expected to spend around 300,000 Ariary (~$100) on fuel alone. With our 8-day rental costing $503 (~$56,000 Ariary), our total transportation cost would be nearly $900.
It was painful to think about, but saving time was worth it.
Events
Scenic Drive Through Madagascar’s Highlands
As the sun rose, smoke curled into the sky from small village homes, signaling that families were preparing breakfast. The landscape shifted from rolling hills to vast open plains, with towering pine trees and patches of farmland scattered along the way.
We passed by Ambatolampy, a small town south of Antananarivo. Most towns in Madagascar are built along major roads, so driving through the country naturally takes you through various urban centers.
Dizzy drove with confidence, overtaking every car in sight. His aggressive driving matched my style perfectly.
Along the way, we spotted a Taxi-Brousse, the cheapest form of public transportation in Madagascar. These shared minibuses cram as many passengers as possible into tight spaces, with adult men practically stacked on top of each other in the back rows.
Taxi-Brousses take a long time to reach their destination, often getting delayed if the vehicle doesn’t fill up completely. We never considered using one, not only because of the inconvenience but also because Sweetie sometimes gets motion sickness on long rides. Plus, Coco had one major concern—cockroaches. These minibuses were notorious for being filled with them.
Watching passengers squeezed together made us feel slightly better about our expensive rental car.
Arrival in Antsirabe and Unexpected Money Troubles
After over three hours of driving, we finally reached Antsirabe, the largest city in Madagascar’s central highlands. We took a short break at a gas station and decided to withdraw some cash.
Until now, we had been using $100 bills exchanged at various locations, but we had spent most of it paying for our rental car. From this point onward, we had to rely on ATMs.
However, our first attempt at a BNI Madagascar ATM failed—all our cards were rejected.
This was a major problem. We needed to refuel at least once more before reaching Morondava, and if we couldn’t withdraw money, we would be in serious trouble.
We decided to keep moving, hoping to find another working ATM later on.
Lunch in Miandrivazo
Several hours later, we arrived in Miandrivazo, a small town in the heart of Madagascar. Here, we stopped for lunch and another round of refueling.
Fuel prices in Miandrivazo were higher than in Antananarivo due to transportation costs. Diesel was now 3,380 Ariary per liter (~$1.20). We refilled the tank, spending another 120,000 Ariary (~$43).
For lunch, Dizzy asked if we wanted to eat at a large restaurant or a local eatery. Without hesitation, we chose the latter.
We ordered fish stew and chicken. The portion of rice was enormous, but the side dishes were minimal. The chicken dish, in particular, was disappointing—just two tiny wings with barely any meat.
However, the broth served with the meal tasted exactly like Korean samgyetang (ginseng chicken soup). It was a comforting, familiar flavor.
Sweetie loved it and ate more rice than usual. The restaurant owner even offered her a second helping of soup.
With our stomachs full, we got back on the road for the long drive ahead.
Tips for Traveling with a Baby
- Start the journey early to make the most of daylight hours.
- Bring familiar snacks, as local food may not always suit a baby’s taste.
- Keep motion sickness bags within reach, especially for long road trips.
- Have cash on hand, as ATMs can be unreliable in rural areas.
Local Travel Tips
Fuel and Transportation
- Diesel is cheaper than gasoline, so renting a diesel car can help reduce costs.
- Fuel prices increase in remote areas due to transportation costs. Always refuel in major cities when possible.
- Public transport, like the Taxi-Brousse, is extremely cheap but uncomfortable and unreliable.
Money and ATMs
- Large bills are best for exchanging money, but it’s important to keep small denominations for daily expenses.
- ATMs in smaller towns can be unreliable, so always withdraw extra cash in major cities.
- Credit cards are rarely accepted outside major hotels and upscale restaurants.
Travel Reflections
Driving through Madagascar’s highlands was an eye-opening experience. The landscape was nothing like the tropical jungle we had imagined. Instead, vast grasslands, rolling hills, and scattered villages stretched endlessly.
The road conditions were mostly good in the first half, but as we reached the midway point, the smooth asphalt disappeared. Deep potholes and rough patches made for a bumpy ride, jolting us awake every time we tried to nap.
Morondava still felt far away, but we were getting closer.
“Madagascar is full of surprises. We expected jungles and rainforests, but instead, we found endless golden plains. This road trip is already proving to be more adventurous than we imagined.”
Next stop: Arriving in Morondava and Visiting the Avenue of the Baobabs.
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