Join us on a Madagascar road trip from Morondava to Antsirabe! Discover family travel tips, baby-friendly adventures, and local insights.
Table of Contents
Main Journey
Leaving Morondava always felt like moving house rather than just checking out of a hotel. Packing up everything we had unpacked over the past few days took time, but we were used to it by now.
Our original plan was to drive straight from Morondava to Antananarivo (Tana) in one day, then head to Andasibe National Park the next morning. But after listening to our driver and guide, Grandpa Didi, we decided to adjust our itinerary.
New Route:
Morondava โ Antsirabe (1 night) โ Andasibe
This way, Grandpa Didi wouldnโt have to drive such a long distance in one day, and weโd get to explore Antsirabe, a city we hadnโt visited before.
Before leaving, I ran to the beach one last time to capture the view. It felt bittersweet.
โNext time our daughter comes here, sheโll probably be on her own. I hope this place welcomes her warmly in our absence.โ
We stopped by a small mukary shop near our guesthouse to buy some for breakfast. Mukary is a type of deep-fried dough, one of Sweetieโs favorites. As we packed the car, I heard her calling us from inside, flashing her biggest smile. Maybe she was calling for mukary instead of us.
At the ATM, I withdrew a thick stack of Ariary, Madagascarโs currency. For some reason, only this particular bankโs machine worked with our card, so we took out enough cash to last us a while.
Finally, with a bag of mukary in hand, we hit the road.
Events
A Final Goodbye to the Baobabs
We had already said goodbye to the Avenue of the Baobabs the day before, but seeing those towering trees again as we drove out of Morondava felt different. This was truly the last time.
โGoodbye, Baobabs!โ
Sweetie and Julie waved enthusiastically. I joined them, feeling a pang of sadness.
The Endless Inland Journey
Despite Madagascar being an island, it felt more like a vast continent. It is, after all, the fourth largest island in the world. The inland landscapes stretched endlessly before us, reminding me of the vast deserts I had seen in North Africa.
One of the most fascinating things about driving here was the zebu (humped cattle) wandering on the roads. Some zebus would step aside as the car approached, while others stubbornly refused to move until their herders tapped them with a stick.
Along the way, we stopped to buy bananas from a roadside vendor. A whole bunch cost 2,000 Ariary (about 70 cents)โso cheap that I considered buying several.
Discovering Madagascarโs Climate Zones
The western part of Madagascar, where we were driving, falls into the Bsh (hot semi-arid) climate zone. This means it has distinct wet and dry seasons, with extended periods of drought. The landscape resembled parts of the Sahara Desert I had visited before.
I stepped out of the car to get a closer look. The soil was dry and compact, with small, polished quartz-like stones scattered across the ground. They looked like tiny gemstones.
I handed Sweetie five of these stones and told her they were magic jewels. She carefully held them in her little hands, treating them like treasures.
Tips for Traveling with a Baby
How to Keep a Baby Entertained on Long Car Rides
Traveling across Madagascar meant hours of driving through remote landscapes. Keeping Sweetie entertained during these long rides was a challenge, but we found a few things that worked:
- Sketchbook & Colored Pencils: Sweetie loved drawing, which kept her busy for a while.
- Imaginative Play: She often pretended to cook, using invisible ingredients and serving us make-believe meals.
- Natural Toys: She found joy in simple things like baobab leaves, sand, and stones.
After our trip to Mauritius, she became especially fascinated with sand play, which added a new layer to her imaginative games.
Local Travel Tips
What to Expect on Madagascarโs Roads
- Zebu on the Roads: These cattle roam freely, so always be prepared to slow down.
- Village Market Days: Some towns have bustling market days where roads get crowded with people and carts. Plan extra time for delays.
- ATM Availability: Not all ATMs accept foreign cards. Withdraw cash whenever you find a working machine.
Food in Madagascar โ A Hidden Connection to Korean Cuisine
That evening, we stopped at a roadside restaurant for dinner. Grandpa Didi helped us order, which was a relief since we couldnโt read the menu.
Julie ordered a fish stew, while I went for a dish made with zebu meat and beans in broth.
As soon as I tasted it, I was surprised.
โThis tastes just like Korean yukgaejang!โ
The only difference was that it had beans instead of vegetables. Adding some chili made it even spicier, enhancing the familiar flavor.
Grandpa Didi was amused when I told him that rice was also a staple food in Korea. He had never realized the similarities between Malagasy and Korean cuisine.
Travel Reflections
Experiencing a Place with All Five Senses
Watching the scenery pass by through a car window is one thing, but stepping outside and experiencing it with all your senses is completely different.
- The sunlight warming my skin
- The sound of dry earth crunching under my feet
- The rustling of the grass in the wind
- The earthy scent carried by the breeze
- The prickly burrs sticking to my pants
No photo or VR experience could ever replicate these sensations. This is why real travel is irreplaceable.
The Changing Landscape of Madagascar
As we neared Antsirabe, the scenery shifted. Trees became more frequent, and the air grew cooler. The high-altitude climate here was noticeably different from the arid plains we had left behind.
We drove through a town where people dressed in white church uniforms walked in long processions. Grandpa Didi explained that they were returning from a church service, a common sight on Sundays.
Arriving in Antsirabe
Finally, after hours on the road, we arrived in Antsirabe. The town had a different atmosphere from anywhere we had visited in Madagascar.
“This is Antsirabe,” Grandpa Didi announced, anticipating my question.
We hadnโt booked a place to stay, but he took us to a hotel he knew. It was affordable and comfortable, so we decided to stay the night.
For the first time on this trip, I pulled out a long-sleeved shirtโa clear sign that we had entered a cooler climate.
As I unpacked, I thought about how every new place we visited added another layer to our journey. Madagascar was vast and full of surprises, and this trip was far from over.
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