Join us on a Madagascar road trip from Antsirabe to Andasibe National Park. Tips for traveling with a baby, local cuisine !
Table of Contents
Main Journey
A Rough Night for Sweetie
Last night, Sweetie enjoyed a full bowl of Zandina Soup at the restaurant. Unfortunately, her stomach didn’t handle it well.
She suddenly woke up in the middle of the night, crying, and then started vomiting. We rushed her to the bathroom, cleaned her up, and tried to calm her down before putting her back to bed.
An hour later, it happened again. And then again.
None of us got much sleep.
Back in Korea, Sweetie had never had digestive issues before, so we debated whether or not to bring baby digestive medicine on this trip. Thankfully, we had decided to pack a small supply of Kkomah Hwalmyungsoo, a Korean digestive remedy. It turned out to be a lifesaver.
Sweetie’s stomach was bloated and hard, and she had bouts of diarrhea throughout the morning. It was tough to watch her go through it.
Leaving Antsirabe in the Rain
As we left Antsirabe, light rain began to fall.
Madagascar is a country of stark contrasts between rich and poor, and Antsirabe was no exception.
Sweetie, still feeling sick and exhausted, developed a double eyelid on one eye, something that always happened when she was unwell.
She couldn’t eat, and her stomach remained bloated. Julie and I massaged her belly gently as we drove, hoping to ease her discomfort.
Throughout the drive, we remained on high alert, constantly checking if she needed to vomit or use the bathroom.
Events
Emergency Stop on the Mountain Roads
As we drove through the winding mountain roads, Sweetie suddenly said:
“Mommy, Daddy, my tummy hurts.”
Since she was still young, she couldn’t clearly differentiate between needing to vomit or needing the toilet. Either way, it was a sign that something was coming.
We quickly asked Grandpa Didi to pull over.
When we got out, she told us she needed to use the bathroom, but then changed her mind. Since it was still raining, we couldn’t stay outside for long and had to continue driving.
A Close Call at the Restaurant
By the time we reached a local Malagasy restaurant for lunch, Sweetie finally managed to go to the bathroom.
It was severe diarrhea, and we were incredibly relieved that it happened in a place with proper toilets and even a shower. Had it happened in the car, it would have been a disaster.
A Taste of Traditional Malagasy Cuisine
While Sweetie recovered, we ordered two pork dishes.
🔹 Malagasy Pork & Cassava Leaves
A traditional Malagasy dish where cassava leaves are pounded and cooked with pork ribs. The flavor was rich and hearty.
🔹 Chicken Soup with Rice
Similar to Korean samgyetang, this was a clear broth-based soup with chicken. Since Sweetie’s stomach was still unsettled, we gave her a bowl of rice soaked in the broth.
She ate the entire bowl and even asked for more. We had to stop her from overeating to avoid another stomachache.
To end the meal, we ordered two cups of Malagasy coffee (1,500 Ariary each). The beans used in this restaurant had a strong acidity, which wasn’t our favorite. We preferred smoother, less sour coffee.
A Surprise Encounter with Giant Grapefruit
On the way to Andasibe, we saw several roadside fruit stalls. One particular fruit caught our attention—it was enormous.
Curious, we asked Grandpa Didi what it was.
He pulled over so we could take a closer look.
It turned out to be grapefruit, but unlike the small ones we get in Korea, these were larger than Sweetie’s face!
Sweetie was fascinated, repeatedly asking, “What is this?” She couldn’t stop touching and examining the giant fruit.
Conversations About Madagascar and Korea
During the long drive, Grandpa Didi and I had a fascinating conversation.
His Questions About Korea
- “Can North Koreans travel to South Korea freely to buy a car and bring it back?”
- “Can people cross the border anytime?”
His questions revealed a complete lack of knowledge about Korea’s division, which made me realize how little the outside world understands about our situation.
Madagascar’s Connection to France
We also discussed Madagascar’s history. Despite gaining independence from France in 1960, French influence remained strong. There were still many French-owned restaurants and hotels, and a significant number of French tourists.
I asked how Malagasy people felt about the French.
“We don’t like them,” Grandpa Didi admitted. “Colonization was painful.”
He also explained that June 26th was Madagascar’s Independence Day, which explained why we had been seeing Malagasy flags everywhere.
Unlike in Korea, where Independence Day is more of a historical observance, Madagascar seemed to place much greater significance on the event. People started putting up flags two weeks in advance.
Tips for Traveling with a Baby
Always Carry Baby Digestive Medicine
- Even if your child has never had stomach issues before, you never know when they’ll need it.
- Kkomah Hwalmyungsoo was a lifesaver for us.
How to Handle a Sick Baby on a Road Trip
- Bring plastic bags for emergencies.
- Make frequent massage stops to ease bloating.
- Monitor your child’s condition closely—hydration is key.
Best Foods for a Sick Baby
- Clear chicken soup with rice
- Simple bread (from a bakery like Croustipain)
- Mild tea or warm water
Local Travel Tips
Where to Eat in Rural Madagascar
- Many roadside eateries don’t have menus in English, so having a local guide like Grandpa Didi can be incredibly helpful.
- If you want pork dishes, you’ll find them more easily in non-Muslim regions like Antsirabe.
Madagascar’s Fruit Markets
- Madagascar grows massive grapefruit, which are worth trying.
- Roadside fruit stands often sell fresh and cheap produce.
Travel Reflections
A Tough But Memorable Journey
Today’s drive from Antsirabe to Andasibe was exhausting. Not because of the distance, but because we had to constantly be on alert for Sweetie’s condition.
Still, she started to recover in the evening, and seeing her regain her energy was a relief.
Settling Into Our Andasibe Bungalow
Grandpa Didi arranged a bungalow near Andasibe National Park for us.
Originally priced at 95,000 Ariary, he managed to get it for us at 50,000 Ariary thanks to his connections.
To our surprise, the room was spacious and well-maintained, complete with a canopy mosquito net draped over the bed.
Sweetie immediately ran onto the bed, shouting:
“Let’s hide under here!”
She was clearly feeling better. Her color was returning, and she no longer seemed in pain.
Resting Before Our Andasibe Tour
It was only 3 PM, but after such a hectic journey, we decided to take a break and wait for our local guide to arrive for tomorrow’s Andasibe National Park tour.
Even though we had spent most of the day just sitting in a car, we felt completely drained.
Tomorrow, we’d finally explore the lush forests of Andasibe.
Leave a Reply