Wadi Rum Sunset, Stars, and Sweetie’s First Desert Walk

Julie

2025-05-16

Wadi Rum Sunset, Stars, and Sweetie’s First Desert Walk

Discover our Wadi Rum travel with baby Sweetie — from jeep tours and fiery sunsets to stargazing in the desert. A family journey into the wild Jordanian magic.

Main Journey

After finishing our jeep tour through the dramatic desert landscape of Wadi Rum, we returned to our camp to settle into the afternoon heat. The tour, which started early in the morning, ended around 3:30 PM, leaving us plenty of time to rest, but the tent we were assigned was unbearably hot.

Wadi Rum’s desert camps are generally well-equipped. Unlike our experience in the Moroccan Sahara, where even finding a toilet was a challenge, this camp had proper tents, a dining area, shared bathrooms, showers, and even a small kitchen area. Still, nothing could shield us from the desert’s midday blaze.

Instead of staying in the oven-like tent, we found shade in a communal area where Sayyed, the camp host, kindly served us hot tea. Despite the heat, drinking hot tea actually had a cooling effect on the body. Strange but true.

While Julie and Sweetie took a much-needed nap, I decided to explore the rocky landscape in front of the camp. One particular rock formation had caught my eye during the jeep tour. It stood like a stone temple, its lines and layers giving it the feel of a man-made structure carved by time.

As I walked further from camp, I noticed how the terrain of Wadi Rum was a blend of two extremes: firm, solid ground that was easy to walk on and soft, shifting sand that made every step a workout. It’s this contrast that gives Wadi Rum its distinctive beauty.

Being alone in the desert gave me an odd sensation—part solitude, part thrill. It felt like stepping away from civilization into the wild. The kind of place where the silence has weight.

But even that thrill came with boundaries. I always knew the camp was within reach. The second that sense of direction disappears, the desert stops being exciting and starts feeling dangerous.

Events

As the sun began its slow descent behind the horizon, we all headed out again—this time as a family. Finding a good sunset viewpoint in Wadi Rum is a challenge in itself. Unlike the open dunes of the Sahara, Wadi Rum is full of massive rock formations that hide the horizon.

We walked until we found a narrow gap between the rocks. There, we could finally see the sun dipping below the edge of the world. The shadows stretched long, and the air cooled rapidly, making it much easier to enjoy the walk.

Sweetie was full of energy. She played in the sand, pressing her tiny hands into the ground. But one print wasn’t enough. She wanted to leave many.

Watching her in the soft light of dusk, Julie smiled quietly, soaking in the peaceful joy of that moment.

On our way back, Sweetie refused to be carried—even as her feet sank into the sand with every step. She was determined to walk all the way on her own. And she did.

At one point, she started pretending the tracks in the sand were train tracks. She made “chug chug” sounds and followed them with total focus. That moment made the whole day worth it.

Back at camp, dinner was waiting—an enormous plate of Bedouin-style rice and grilled chicken. It was delicious, though the portion size was far beyond what any of us could finish. Even Sweetie, who had only eaten bread earlier, was excited to eat. She kept filling her tiny belly with the fluffy rice.

After dinner, night fell quickly. And above us, without any artificial lights, the Milky Way stretched clear and long across the sky.

Tips for Traveling with a Baby

Camp Comforts for Naps and Sleep

Choose desert camps with shaded communal spaces. Tents heat up quickly in the afternoon and are not ideal for napping. A cool, shaded area can make a big difference for your baby’s rest.

Hydration is Everything

Make hydration a priority. Always carry extra water specifically for your baby. Sweetie drank more than usual in the desert climate, so we were glad we had more than enough with us.

Sand is the Perfect Playground

Let your baby explore the desert safely. Soft sand is ideal for sensory play, and Sweetie had a blast making handprints and walking barefoot. Stay close, and let them take the lead.

Familiar Foods Work Best

Desert camps usually offer basic but tasty meals like rice and grilled meat. These were perfect for Sweetie. Familiar textures and mild flavors helped her eat comfortably in a new environment.

Local Travel Tips

Time Your Walks

The desert heat is intense between late morning and mid-afternoon. Plan any hikes or walks in early morning or after 5 PM when the temperatures begin to drop.

Don’t Miss the Sunset Spot

Wadi Rum’s unique geography means you can’t see the sunset from just anywhere. Walk toward rock gaps or higher ground to get a better view of the horizon.

Return Before Dark

Wadi Rum gets pitch-dark fast. Unless you have a guide or are confident in your route, plan to return to camp before dusk. The terrain can become disorienting quickly.

Try the Bedouin Tea

Don’t skip the tea. It’s more than a drink—it’s a cultural ritual. Surprisingly, hot tea can help your body cool down in the desert heat. Give it a try.

Travel Reflections

Wadi Rum gave us more than a day in the desert. It gave us clarity.

Even though the sun was relentless and the sand endless, it was also a place where we could feel time stretch out. Where Sweetie’s little handprints felt like our own footprints in a wider story.

I realized again how adaptable children are. While we worried about the heat and logistics, Sweetie just explored. For her, the desert wasn’t a challenge—it was a playground.

And that night, under a sky filled with stars, Julie and I sat side by side and just looked up. For a few quiet moments, there was nothing else. No plans, no movement, no future or past—just now.

That might be the most valuable thing a desert can give.