DAY 28: Bagan Sunset: Chasing Beauty at Bulethi Pagoda

DAY 28: Bagan Sunset: Chasing Beauty at Bulethi Pagoda

Experience the Bagan sunset at Bulethi Pagoda, ride through Myanmar’s plains, and embrace unexpected adventures with a baby in tow.


Table of Contents

  1. Main Journey
  2. Events
  3. Tips for Traveling with a Baby
  4. Local Travel Tips
  5. Travel Reflections

Main Journey in Bagan sunset with a baby

Finding the Perfect Sunset Spot: Bulethi Pagoda

With hopes high for a spectacular sunset, we set out once again, riding our trusty e-bike through the dusty plains of Bagan. Today, we stumbled upon Bulethi Pagoda, a smaller but popular spot for both sunrise and sunset views.

Arriving about 50 minutes before sunset, we realized we weren’t alone – the top terrace was already packed. Instead, we found a cozy corner one level below, perfect for Sweetie to sit comfortably while we soaked in the view.


Waiting for the Golden Moment

The landscape stretched far and wide:

  • Pagodas and temples scattered across the plains.
  • The paths and places we had explored over the last two days visible in the distance.

With clouds lingering on the horizon, we hoped for a golden glow. But as the sun dipped lower, it disappeared not behind the distant hills but into a blanket of clouds.

The vibrant sunset we had imagined didn’t appear. Instead, a faint moon began to rise, softly illuminating the pagodas below.

“It seems we’re just not meant to catch that perfect Bagan sunrise or sunset.”


The Descent in Twilight

Heading back down the pagoda was slightly nerve-wracking. Unlike Shwesandaw Pagoda, Bulethi lacks handrails, making the descent feel just a little more precarious. As we carefully climbed down, we noticed the moon glowing brightly above us – a small consolation for the lack of a dramatic sunset.


Dinner Disappointment at the #2 Restaurant

Hoping to recover from our sunset letdown, we decided to try TripAdvisor’s #2-rated restaurant. It specialized in vegetarian food, which piqued our curiosity.

What we received, however, was disappointing:

  • Dishes that looked like side dishes rather than meals.
  • Portions so small they could barely fill us, and one dish was cold by the time it arrived.

A quick peek into the kitchen revealed why: the food was being prepared on two tiny burners with just one small frying pan. While charming in its simplicity, it made for painfully slow service.

“I bet the group that just walked in won’t see their food until 2 a.m.,” I joked as we left.


The Battery Crisis: An Unforgettable Ride Home

After dinner, we set out for our guesthouse via Anawrahta Road, named after the first king of the Bagan dynasty. The paved road is the closest thing Bagan has to a “highway.”

But as we approached the road, the e-bike’s battery gauge began blinking ominously – not a single bar of power remained. With miles to go, panic set in.

From that moment, it became a test of teamwork and determination:

  1. Uphill Struggles: I pushed the bike with all my strength, using my legs to propel us forward.
  2. Downhill Thrills: We coasted silently, leaning forward to reduce air resistance, like bobsled racers in slow motion.

When we finally reached the outskirts of town, a long downhill stretch saved us. We coasted effortlessly into the city, eventually rolling to a stop in front of our guesthouse.


Triumph and Celebration

I let out a deep sigh of relief, but Julie’s excitement cut through my exhaustion.

“That was so much fun!” she exclaimed, laughing like a child after an adventure.

Seeing her joy, I couldn’t help but smile too. We toasted our success with a well-earned “Big Bottle” of Myanmar Beer, the perfect way to end an unexpectedly thrilling day.


Events

  1. Sunset at Bulethi Pagoda: A cozy spot with sweeping views, though the clouds stole the show.
  2. A Dinner Letdown: Small portions, slow service, and a kitchen working overtime.
  3. The Battery Crisis: An unforgettable ride home that turned a problem into a moment of triumph.

Tips for Traveling with a Baby

Sunset Spots for Families

  • Choose pagodas with lower terraces or quiet corners for a safe and comfortable spot with your baby.
  • Bring a light blanket or scarf for extra comfort as you wait for sunset.

E-Bike Battery Management

  • Don’t overestimate your e-bike battery range. Keep an eye on the gauge, especially after a full day of exploring.
  • Plan your return route early to avoid being stranded in the dark.

Local Travel Tips

Bulethi Pagoda for Sunsets

  • Arrive early to secure a good spot, as the top terrace fills quickly.
  • The terraces below are quieter and just as scenic.

Vegetarian Dining in Bagan

  • Be prepared for slow service at smaller, local restaurants. Simpler kitchens may take longer to prepare meals, especially during busy hours.

Riding in the Dark

  • Bagan roads can be pitch-black after sunset. A reliable e-bike light is essential for navigating safely.

Travel Reflections in Bagan sunset with a baby

  1. The Beauty in Imperfection: Even without a golden sunset, Bagan’s tranquil landscape – dotted with pagodas and bathed in moonlight – still held a quiet magic.
  2. The Spirit of Adventure: Sometimes, the most challenging moments (like a dying e-bike battery) turn into the most memorable stories.
  3. Shared Joy: Watching Julie laugh during our “emergency ride” reminded me that travel is about enjoying every moment, no matter how unexpected.

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