Visit Kirindy National Park in Madagascar to see lemurs, fossa, and stunning baobab trees. A must-visit for wildlife lovers!
Table of Contents
- Main Journey – A Day Trip to Kirindy National Park
- Events – Encounters with Fossa, Lemurs, and a Hidden World
- Tips for Traveling with a Baby – Navigating a Forest with a Toddler
- Local Travel Tips – What You Should Know Before Visiting Kirindy
- Travel Reflections – An Exhausting but Unforgettable Adventure
Main Journey – A Day Trip to Kirindy National Park
It was a rare morning when we woke up after sunrise. The sound of the waves outside our window made it impossible to go back to sleep.
After greeting our driver, Didi, we set off for Kirindy Mitea National Park, located about 2.5 hours from Morondava. The morning air was unusually misty, covering the entire city in a thick fog.
Unexpected Police Checkpoint
As we passed through Morondava, we encountered a police checkpoint. The officers asked for our passports and had a long conversation with Didi. Since they spoke in Malagasy, we couldn’t understand, but judging by their friendly banter, it seemed like Didi knew them.
Driving Through Avenue of the Baobabs
To reach Kirindy, we had to drive through the famous Avenue of the Baobabs. The fog made the ancient trees look even more mystical. If we had planned to visit for sunrise, we would have been disappointed—but today, it was just part of the journey.
Further down the road, we passed an area even denser with baobab trees than Avenue of the Baobabs itself. Didi kindly stopped for a few minutes so we could take in the view.
Then came the real challenge: the road to Kirindy. It was an extreme off-road adventure—bumpy, rough, and relentless. For two hours, we bounced around the backseat like live fish at a seafood market.
Finally, we arrived at Kirindy National Park. The entrance looked like a simple wooden hut—nothing fancy, just a small reception area in the middle of the forest.
Events – Encounters with Fossa, Lemurs, and a Hidden World
Entrance Fees and Tour Options
Kirindy National Park offers several guided tour options:
- Entrance Fee: 35,000 Ariary ($10) per person
- Guided Tours:
- 2-hour tour: 10,000 Ariary ($3)
- 4-hour tour: 20,000 Ariary ($6)
- Accommodation:
- Bungalows from 117,000–200,000 Ariary ($34–58)
Originally, we had planned to stay overnight for the night tour, but after hearing that the food was bad and the accommodations overpriced, we decided to make it a day trip instead.
An Unexpected Encounter – The Fossa
As soon as we stepped out of the reception area, we saw the fossa (Cryptoprocta ferox), Madagascar’s top predator!
It had come to drink water from a plastic basin, completely unfazed by our presence. It looked like a mix between a cat and a dog, with sharp eyes and a long body.
The guide warned us that fossas can be aggressive, so we kept our distance and carried our baby in a sling.
Into the Forest – Searching for Lemurs
Our guide led us into the dense forest, carrying a wooden stick—perhaps for protection against wild animals.
The main goal of today’s tour was to find two species of lemurs: the Brown Lemur and the White Lemur.
The forest was scattered with baobab trees, adding to the surreal atmosphere. As we walked, we spotted a variety of wildlife:
- Lizards – Much more colorful and agile than the ones back home
- Ebony trees – The dark wood used to make piano keys
- Funny Baobab – A strange-looking baobab with a large bulge, which our daughter insisted on touching
The ground was covered in fallen baobab fruit shells, which looked like hollowed-out passion fruits. The guide explained that baobab fruit has a sour, citrus-like taste, similar to tamarind.
Meeting the Lemurs
After an hour and a half, our guide slowed down and whispered: “There they are.”
Up in the trees, we spotted our first Brown Lemur!
Not far away, another one was sleeping on a branch. Lemurs are not monkeys—they are a unique species of primates found only in Madagascar.
A Special Moment – Feeding the Lemurs
The guide picked up an empty snail shell, filled it with water, and placed it near the tree.
“Sometimes, they come down to drink,” he said, not sounding too confident.
But to our surprise, one lemur immediately climbed down and began drinking from the shell.
Our daughter was fascinated. She even got to hold the shell while the lemur drank. At one point, the tiny lemur accidentally grabbed her hand, mistaking it for the shell. It was a moment we would never forget.
A Search for the White Lemur
Feeling encouraged, we ventured deeper into the forest, hoping to find a White Lemur.
However, the terrain became more difficult—fallen branches, uneven paths, and occasional termite mounds.
Eventually, our daughter fell asleep, making it even harder to carry her through the rough terrain. After another 30 minutes of searching, we had to give up. The White Lemur would remain elusive—for today, at least.
Tips for Traveling with a Baby – Navigating a Forest with a Toddler
1. Baby Carrier is Essential
The rough trails make it impossible to use a stroller. A good baby carrier made hiking much easier.
2. Long Pants Are Recommended
The forest floor is covered with thorny branches and rough tree roots. While long pants protect your legs, they can also be uncomfortable in the heat.
3. Bring Extra Water
Our guide suggested bringing extra water for ourselves—but it turned out to be useful for the lemurs too!
4. Be Flexible with Expectations
We couldn’t find the White Lemur, but we still had an amazing experience with the Brown Lemurs and fossa. Sometimes, wildlife encounters are unpredictable.
Local Travel Tips – What You Should Know Before Visiting Kirindy
- The drive is very rough. Expect a bumpy, off-road ride for nearly 2 hours.
- Accommodation and food are overpriced. If possible, do a day trip instead of staying overnight.
- The best time to visit is early morning. Animals are most active at this time.
- Lemur sightings are not guaranteed. While Brown Lemurs are common, White Lemurs can be harder to find.
Travel Reflections – An Exhausting but Unforgettable Adventure
Kirindy National Park was not the easiest place to explore—bumpy roads, intense heat, and long hikes. But it was worth every moment.
Watching our daughter interact with lemurs, seeing a fossa in the wild, and walking through a forest filled with baobabs made this one of the most memorable experiences in Madagascar.
After the tour, we had a disappointing yet overpriced lunch at the park restaurant—two simple spaghetti dishes for 40,000 Ariary ($12). It was a harsh reminder that food here is not worth the price.
As we headed back to Morondava, bouncing around on the rough roads once again, I glanced at Julie and said, “That was exhausting—but amazing.”
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