Driving from Andasibe to Antananarivo, encountering gendarmerie checkpoints, roadside customs, and negotiating hotel deals.
Table of Contents
Main Journey
Leaving Andasibe for Antananarivo
After finishing our Andasibe adventure, we set off for Antananarivo, the capital of Madagascar.
Interestingly, the city’s original name was Tananarive, but it was later changed to Antananarivo. However, most locals still simply call it “Tana.”
Before hitting the road, Dizzy Grandpa suggested we refuel.
“Do we really need a full tank? The drive to Tana is only about 4 hours!”
But he insisted it would be a good idea. Since we were nearing the end of our rental period, we didn’t want to return the car with too much leftover fuel. So instead of filling up completely, we decided to put in 80,000 Ariary ($23 USD)—just enough to last the trip and the next day’s driving in Tana.
With that, we were ready to go!
Events
Roadside Checkpoints and Encounters with the Gendarmerie
As we drove toward Tana, a group of officers flagged our car down.
These were gendarmerie, responsible for maintaining security on highways and outside urban areas. Unlike the police, who handle law enforcement within cities, the gendarmerie’s role dates back to the country’s colonial period under French rule.
They asked for our car documents, which Dizzy Grandpa handed over. After a quick check, they let us go without any issues.
A Lunch Stop and a Surprise from Sweetie
For lunch, we stopped at a roadside restaurant. As we sat down, Sweetie suddenly pointed at a small wooden decoration and exclaimed:
“That’s a baobab tree!”
It was amazing to see how much she had absorbed from our travels. She had seen real baobab trees in Morondava, and now she could recognize them even in decorations.
Lunch was simple but delicious:
- Zebu sausage dish – 3,500 Ariary
- Grilled freshwater fish – 10,000 Ariary
An Unusual Sight on Madagascar’s Roads
One of the unique things about driving in Madagascar is seeing locals filling potholes with dirt and stones—then standing by the road, hoping for a tip from passing drivers.
Dizzy Grandpa didn’t even slow down, and neither did most of the cars around us. But the fact that people kept doing it meant that some drivers must have been giving them money.
Approaching Tana – A Changing Landscape
After several hours, we noticed the scenery changing. The dense forests and open fields slowly disappeared, replaced by rice paddies and small villages. That was a sure sign that we were getting close to Tana.
I must have dozed off for a bit because when I opened my eyes, I saw a fortress-like structure on a hill—a landmark of the capital.
“Wow, we’re here already?”
The familiar intersections and city streets came into view. Our plan was to return the rental car after one last day of exploring Tana.
Checking into Our Hotel – A Stroke of Luck!
We had stayed at Le Lotus Bleu on our first night in Madagascar and liked it so much that we wanted to book it again. But when we checked Booking.com while still in Morondava, the price had skyrocketed to 150,000 Ariary ($45 USD) per night.
So, instead of booking online, we decided to go directly to the hotel and negotiate.
At reception, they told us the only available rooms were still 150,000 Ariary per night.
That’s when we pulled out our secret weapon—the receipt from our first stay!
“We’re staying for four nights. Can you give us a better rate?”
Without hesitation, the receptionist agreed to let us stay at the same price as before.
To our surprise, the room they gave us this time was much bigger and had a stunning lake view! We had definitely lucked out.
Dinner at a Familiar Restaurant
For dinner, we revisited a small restaurant near our hotel where we had eaten on our first night.
At the time, we had just arrived in Madagascar and thought it was simply a French restaurant. But after traveling around the country, we now realized it was actually a French-style Malagasy restaurant—a fusion of local flavors with European influences.
Sweetie, who had barely noticed the framed pictures on the walls last time, was now pointing at them and asking questions. It was incredible how much she had grown during this trip.
Dinner included a starter, main course, and dessert for 22,000 Ariary ($7 USD) per person—a satisfying meal at a great price.
Tips for Traveling with a Baby
- Bring familiar snacks for long drives
- The road from Andasibe to Tana takes about 4 hours, and there aren’t many places to stop. Having snacks for the baby helps avoid hunger-induced meltdowns.
- Prepare for unexpected roadside stops
- Madagascar has many police and gendarmerie checkpoints. Keep car rental documents handy to avoid unnecessary delays.
- Negotiate hotel prices in person
- Online prices for hotels can be inflated. If possible, visit in person and ask for a discount, especially for longer stays.
- Let babies explore and recognize familiar sights
- Sweetie’s excitement at recognizing a baobab tree decoration showed how much she was learning from the trip. Encourage curiosity!
Local Travel Tips
- Don’t always refuel to a full tank before returning a rental car
- If your trip is almost over, calculate how much fuel you actually need to avoid unnecessary costs.
- Expect makeshift road repair “tolls”
- Some locals fill potholes and ask for money. You’re not obligated to pay, but some drivers do give small tips.
- Go directly to hotels for better deals
- Booking online isn’t always the cheapest option. Negotiating in person can get you a much better price.
Travel Reflections
Back in Tana, the Wi-Fi was finally decent again. That meant it was time to catch up on things:
- Julie started researching our future travel plans.
- I focused on writing down our past travel experiences.
- Sweetie danced along to English songs on YouTube.
And just like that, another day in Madagascar came to an end.
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