Discover our chaotic but rewarding journey from Nuweiba to Petra, navigating ferries, unexpected fees, and local kindness.
Table of Contents
- Main Journey
- Events
- Tips for Traveling with a Baby
- Local Travel Tips
- Travel Reflections
Main Journey
Morning Rush: Getting Our Ferry Tickets in Nuweiba
At 8:30 a.m., there was a knock on our door. It was the wife of the Saudi Arabian man we met yesterday. We had planned to buy ferry tickets together at 9:00 a.m., but she suggested we leave a bit earlier.
When we arrived at the ticket office, the Saudi couple purchased their tickets first—$55 each. But when it was our turn, the price suddenly jumped to $95 per person. Why? “Koreans pay $95,” the agent said. We didn’t understand the logic, but there was no choice. Our baby, Sweetie, also needed a ticket, which cost $85.
The ticket prices on the tickets themselves were lower—$90 for adults and $80 for the child. We assumed the difference was a $5 service fee per person. With no US dollars on hand, we paid in Egyptian pounds. Note: only cash is accepted here, no credit cards.
Leaving Our Guesthouse and Heading to the Port
With tickets in hand, we returned to our guesthouse, checked out, and stocked up on essentials—bread, water, juice, and eight packs of milk for Sweetie. We had heard that prices in Jordan were high, so we wanted to be prepared.
At the port entrance, we went through passport and ticket checks, followed by a security screening. A tourism police officer in a white uniform then approached us. His job was to escort foreign tourists through the chaotic port process.
Boarding the Ferry: A Long Wait and Unexpected VIP Treatment
Inside the port building, a massive crowd of Egyptian men was waiting to board the ferry. We weren’t sure why there were so many men and almost no women—perhaps they were traveling to Jordan for work.
But thanks to the tourism officer, we were guided straight to the front of the departure queue. Our passports were stamped without waiting, and we were seated in a foreigner-only section. The Saudi family soon joined us.
Despite the officer’s assurance that the ferry would depart in an hour, it took three hours of waiting before we were allowed to board. Foreigners boarded first, and we were taken to a distant ferry—one of three docked.
As we were about to board, our bags were loaded onto a separate cart. We hesitated, but the staff insisted it was safe. So, we handed them over, hoping they would be there when we arrived in Jordan.
A First-Class Surprise
Climbing up the ferry stairs, we expected to find basic seats. But when the staff saw our tickets, they guided us to a more comfortable seating area. It turned out that we had first-class tickets, which explained the higher price we paid.
The Saudi family had cheaper tickets and were seated in the crowded general area. We realized this was a standard practice—foreigners were charged for first-class by default, just like on Egyptian trains.
Lunch on the Ferry
As the ferry finally set off, we realized we hadn’t eaten anything all day. The ferry had a small kiosk selling meal boxes—chicken, rice, a mysterious sauce, and a soft drink for 100 Egyptian pounds. Though the portion was small, the sauce was so delicious that it made up for the price.
We also exchanged some Egyptian pounds for Jordanian dinars (JOD) onboard—2,000 EGP gave us 75 JOD. Later, we learned that exchanging money at Aqaba port offered much better rates.
Warm Encounters and Sweetie’s Popularity
Traveling with a baby has a way of making strangers feel comfortable around you. Sweetie quickly became the center of attention. Ferry staff came over to greet her, take photos, and even offered us free coffee.
One ferry staff member, whom Sweetie called “Ferry Uncle,” played with her, let her explore restricted areas, and even gifted her three cans of Sprite and a bottle of water as a goodbye present. His kindness left a lasting impression.
Events
Arriving in Jordan: Chaos at Aqaba Port
The ferry docked at Aqaba after about an hour and a half. We were told to wait another hour before disembarking. But when we looked outside, we saw other passengers leaving. We quickly grabbed our bags and joined them.
Surprisingly, our bags were safe and easy to find among the chaotic crowd. Following a police officer, we were guided to the immigration area, where we learned some great news—our Jordanian visas were free because we had arrived by ferry.
The Truth About the Jordan Pass
We had considered buying the Jordan Pass, which includes visa fees, Petra entry, and Wadi Rum fees. But after some research, we learned that the visa fee is waived for travelers entering Jordan by ferry at Aqaba. This saved us a lot of money.
Here’s a quick breakdown of the Jordan Pass prices (at the time):
- 1-day Jordan Pass: 70 JOD
- 2-day Jordan Pass: 75 JOD
- 3-day Jordan Pass: 80 JOD
By paying for the Petra (55 JOD) and Wadi Rum (5 JOD) entry separately, we saved 15 JOD compared to the 2-day Jordan Pass.
Minibus Trouble: Aqaba to Wadi Musa
We left the port around 7:00 p.m. and found a minibus to Wadi Musa (Petra). The driver quoted us 10 JOD per adult, and Sweetie could ride for free. But this was just the start of the chaos.
After waiting for 90 minutes for the bus to fill, we finally set off. But shortly after, the driver started collecting fares, demanding 40 JOD from us. Why? He claimed our luggage took up seats.
We argued, and the price changed several times—30 JOD, then 25 JOD. Finally, we settled on 25 JOD, but the driver’s loud, angry shouting left a bitter taste. Even worse, we had no choice but to pay since we were already on the road.
The ride to Wadi Musa wasn’t direct. The minibus detoured to a city called Ma’an, where all other passengers got off after another shouting match. Finally, around 12:30 a.m., we reached our guesthouse in Wadi Musa.
Tips for Traveling with a Baby
- Have Cash Ready: Ferries in Nuweiba only accept cash for tickets. Bring both USD and local currency for flexibility.
- Pack Snacks and Essentials: The ferry kiosk was overpriced, and the portions were small. Make sure you have enough food and drinks for your baby.
- Prepare for Random Charges: In the minibus, we were suddenly charged extra for luggage and our baby. Stand your ground, but be prepared for last-minute cost changes.
Local Travel Tips
- Jordan Pass vs. Ferry Visa: If entering Jordan via Aqaba by ferry, the visa is free. Don’t waste money on a Jordan Pass unless you plan to visit multiple sites.
- Currency Exchange: Avoid exchanging money on the ferry. Aqaba port has better rates.
- Always Confirm Prices: Whether it’s a ferry ticket, a minibus fare, or a meal, double-check the price before paying.
Travel Reflections
- Traveling with a baby means experiencing kindness from strangers—like the ferry staff who played with Sweetie and gave her drinks. It’s a beautiful reminder of the warmth of humanity.
- The frustration of being overcharged on the minibus was a harsh reminder of the unpredictability of travel. But even that became a story we will laugh about one day.
- Jordan greeted us with a mix of chaos and kindness. From free visas to stressful bus rides, it was a rollercoaster of emotions. But when we finally arrived in Wadi Musa, the excitement of exploring Petra made everything worthwhile.
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