South Africa Road Trip:Agulhas to Hermanus via Elim

Julie

2025-03-23

South Africa Road Trip:Agulhas to Hermanus via Elim

trip with a baby in South Africa from Agulhas to Hermanus through Elim and Pealy Beach. Scenic roads, wine tasting.

1. Main Journey

We were on Day 76 of our world trip with Sweetie when we said goodbye to Cape Agulhas. It was mid-June, and the Southern Hemisphere’s winter was in full swing—cool, windy, cloudy. The kind of weather that makes you feel quiet inside.

Most people would’ve taken the straight paved roads from Agulhas to Hermanus, but we took the slower route, quite literally. A dirt road through Elim, a route the owner of our guesthouse recommended.

“It’s not the fastest, but it’s the most beautiful.”

He wasn’t wrong.

The gravel road had a few slippery spots, but no deep potholes or scary turns. We just kept things slow and steady, and the journey felt peaceful. It wasn’t just a road—it felt like a path through another world.

We stopped often. For plants. For air. For silence.

It’s hard to explain, but I’ve always had a soft spot for plants. Years ago, work led me to start learning about them, and I got hooked. So when I see something unusual growing out of scorched soil—blood-red leaves against black ground—I stop. Every time.

One area looked like a forest had been torched, and now only the root clusters were left, holding the last bit of soil. I stood there staring at those forms, thinking,

“Maybe this is what rebirth looks like.”

Sweetie was asleep in the back seat. Julie and I stretched, breathed in the cold wind, and got back on the road.

2. Events

Not long after, we saw a wooden sign with an oak barrel carved into it—Black Oystercatcher Wines. I pulled over immediately. When you’re driving through rural South Africa and you see a winery, you stop. That’s just the rule.

The parking lot was full. Families, kids, couples—it wasn’t a fancy scene, just warm and relaxed. Kids were playing on the grass. Adults were sipping wine or locally brewed beer. It reminded me of lazy weekends back home.

Julie did most of the tasting—I was on driving duty—but I could tell she was enjoying herself. It had been a while since I saw her cheeks flush from wine. She was glowing, laughing like before Sweetie was born. It felt like time travel, in the best way.

Sweetie, meanwhile, decided to become a photographer. She started mimicking my shutter sounds, “click click,” every time I took a picture. I think that little moment was my favorite part of the day.

Back on the road, a sudden movement on the gravel caught our eyes. Two horses—wild, or maybe just roaming—were galloping toward us, then suddenly turned and vanished back into the brush.
Julie looked at me and said,

“Wow. We really are in Africa.”

We kept moving.

Elim appeared like a dream—whitewashed homes with thatched roofs, simple and still. Some buildings were falling apart, overgrown, like they’d been left behind by time. It was quiet. The kind of quiet that makes you whisper, even when you’re outside.

Eventually, the road climbed a hill, and then—out of nowhere—the ocean exploded into view.

3. Tips for Traveling with a Baby

Traveling like this with a toddler isn’t easy. But it’s possible—and honestly, it’s magic when it works. A few things we learned (and keep learning):

Stop often, even if it messes with your schedule. Sweetie gets fussy between 10am and noon. We’ve learned not to push through it. Stretch breaks, snack breaks, beach breaks—whatever helps her reset.
Backroads are worth it—just go slow. The road through Elim wasn’t paved, but it was peaceful and scenic. As long as you don’t rush, you’ll be fine.
Outdoor places with space are a lifesaver. Black Oystercatcher Wines was baby-friendly in the most natural way—kids could run around safely, parents could sit back and breathe.
Little things go a long way. Sweetie mimicking my camera clicks kept her happy for hours. Toys are great, but simple interactions often work best.

4. Local Travel Tips

If you ever find yourself driving this part of South Africa, here’s what I’d pass on:

Black Oystercatcher Wines (Bredasdorp) – Charming, not too touristy, and good wine. Definitely stop in if you’re near R317. Family-friendly with a local vibe.
Elim – A small, historic village worth the detour. The traditional architecture and stillness make it a beautiful pause.
Pealy Beach – The waves are wild and the wind bites, but it’s a powerful place. We couldn’t stop staring at the foamy surf piling up in little mountain-like shapes.
Hermanus accommodation isn’t cheap – It caught us off guard. Most guesthouses are “boutique” and 4-star. We barely found a backpacker hostel with availability, and even that was fancy by normal standards.
Supermarkets are a key part of the experience – We ended the day with a big shop at Pick n Pay. South African beef is amazing—high-quality, grass-fed, and cheap. I lit the coals and we had a quick-fire BBQ. That smoky flavor after a long day? Nothing better.

5. Travel Reflections

That day on the road—dusty, slow, full of stops—reminded me why we’re doing this.

We weren’t rushing to check places off a list. We were there to feel the land, see Sweetie discover a new corner of the world, and watch each other get surprised by little things again.

The drive didn’t just take us to Hermanus. It gave us stillness, laughter, a buzz from wine, and the shock of wild horses on an open road.

We arrived just before sunset. Sweetie was calm, Julie was glowing, and I felt like we’d earned every minute of that day.

Even the expensive guesthouses couldn’t bother me after that.