Follow our journey from Victoria Falls to Kigali with a baby—border taxis, delays, and the magic of world travel.
Table of Contents
- Main Journey
- Events
- Tips for Traveling with a Baby
- Local Travel Tips
- Travel Reflections
Main Journey
It was Day 88 of our world travel with baby, and what a day it was. The plan was simple in theory but complex in execution: leave Zambia, enter Zimbabwe via Victoria Falls, fly to Harare, then transfer to another flight to reach Kigali, Rwanda. All of that… in one long, exhausting journey.
We had no plans to explore Zimbabwe, but due to flight logistics, this convoluted route was the most budget-friendly way to get to Kenya. The catch? It involved multiple stops and a test of patience—especially with a baby in tow.
Saying Goodbye to Zambia
Keyword: Last Morning in Zambia
Our last morning in Zambia was surprisingly calm. Julie (formerly Coco) whipped up an incredible breakfast with whatever ingredients we had left: a hearty doenjang jjigae filled with beef and potatoes. No tofu? No problem. She even packed homemade burgers for the road. I was honestly in awe—she cooked, packed, and still kept Sweetie (our daughter) happily occupied.
We stayed at Fawlty Towers Backpackers, and it turned out to be a surprisingly peaceful and comfortable base.
Crossing the Victoria Falls Bridge
Keyword: Border Crossing from Zambia to Zimbabwe
We caught the free shuttle to Victoria Falls at 10AM. The shuttle was much fuller than yesterday—full of Korean travelers, including someone who recognized us from our blog! It felt a little embarrassing but also warmed our hearts.
We had already walked the border route once before, but today with our heavy luggage, we took a border taxi instead—$5 for 2km felt like a rip-off, but the load was too much to carry with Sweetie.
At Zimbabwe immigration, we had to pay $30 for a single-entry visa and, once again, they asked about a visa for Sweetie, even though babies technically don’t need one. This inconsistency at borders is something we’re slowly learning to roll with.
Victoria Falls Airport Adventures
Keyword: Delayed Flights at African Airports
Once past the border, we faced another challenge: getting to the airport. We tried to haggle with taxi drivers, but oddly, they all walked away when we said we were headed to the airport—except one. He insisted the $30 fare was government-fixed. We weren’t sure if that was true or just a clever tactic, but we had no other choice.
The ride was long, bumpy, and revealing. Zimbabwe’s economic situation is clearly tough. U.S. dollars are the only currency accepted, and the condition of roads and infrastructure confirmed that times are hard here.
At the small Victoria Falls Airport, we were welcomed by a group performing traditional music and dance. Sweetie lit up at the sight of the large, realistic animal displays—especially the rhino and a terrifying lion mid-hunt.
Unfortunately, our flight—originally scheduled for 1:30PM—got delayed to 5:50PM. We arrived early thinking we’d check-in smoothly, but instead we spent hours sitting around, waiting. Sweetie entertained herself running in the wide-open spaces of the nearly empty terminal, and somehow even spotted our backpacks being loaded onto the plane from far away. Her sharp eyes continue to amaze us.
From Victoria Falls to Harare… and More Waiting
Keyword: Night Layover at Harare Airport
The FastJet flight to Harare was short, but once we landed, the real challenge began. Harare Airport looked more like a rural bus station. The flight board didn’t even show our next flight. It was 3:30AM.
Security? Virtually nonexistent. Anyone could walk in or out. We ruled out sleeping for safety reasons, so Julie and I took turns staying awake to protect Sweetie and our belongings.
Dinner was also a mini-adventure. Airport restaurant prices were steep, so we walked (in the dark) to the arrivals side. Thankfully, we found a humble little restaurant serving good food—T-bone and chicken breast steaks that were surprisingly tasty.
Sweetie fell asleep after her meal, blissfully unaware of the chaos.
Events
Woke up to our last morning in Zambia.
Julie cooked a big pot of doenjang jjigae with beef and potatoes—no tofu. She even made burgers for lunch. I packed up for check-out.
10:00 AM – Took the free shuttle to Victoria Falls.
More Korean travelers today. Someone even recognized us from the blog—kind of surreal.
Exited Zambia at the border.
Much easier this time since we knew where to go.
Border taxi was waiting.
$5 for 2km. Pricey, but with Sweetie and heavy bags, we took it.
Long line at Zimbabwe immigration.
Waited 20 minutes. Paid $30 each. They asked for Sweetie’s visa again—sigh.
Taxi to Victoria Falls Airport.
Only one driver stuck around. Said it’s a government-fixed $30. No room to negotiate.
Arrived at the airport.
A local group was singing and dancing for tips. Sweetie clapped along.
Saw full-size rhino and lion displays.
Sweetie ran up to the rhino, shouted “horn!” and patted it proudly.
Flight was delayed from 1:30 PM to 5:50 PM.
Classic. We waited hours in a nearly empty terminal. Sweetie ran wild.
Check-in opened at 4 PM.
Sweetie didn’t want to check our bags—she was really attached to them. Took some convincing.
At the gate, a kind Korean couple gave Sweetie a safari animal book.
She loved it instantly.
Flight to Harare was short.
Arrived around 7:20 PM. Airport looked like a bus terminal. No security. Kind of sketchy.
Restaurant in departure area was too expensive.
Found a cheaper one near arrivals—$10 T-bone steak. Pretty good.
Tried to rest, but airport didn’t feel safe.
Julie and I took turns staying awake while Sweetie slept.
Tips for Traveling with a Baby
Traveling with a baby in Africa is no small feat, but here’s what helped us survive this crazy 24-hour journey.
Bring Familiar Food
Keyword: Baby Meals
Sweetie was much calmer knowing she had food she recognized. The homemade burgers and a bit of doenjang soup kept her content.
Explain What’s Happening
Keyword: Communication with Baby
Even at 29 months, she understood a lot. We kept explaining everything—from why we needed to check in our bags to where we were flying next. It helped reduce tantrums.
Embrace Baby Play
Keyword: Airport Activities for Babies
Empty terminals turned into perfect playgrounds. Let your baby run around safely where you can see them. It tires them out and keeps boredom at bay.
Stick Together and Rest in Shifts
Keyword: Sleep Strategy at Unsafe Airports
We never both slept at the same time. One of us always stayed awake while the other rested with Sweetie. Safety first, always.
Local Travel Tips
Zimbabwe Border Taxis
Keyword: Taxi Fare Victoria Falls
Expect to pay around $5 for short rides to the border and $30 to the airport. Drivers often won’t negotiate—maybe it’s fixed pricing, maybe not.
Food Prices at Airports
Keyword: Airport Restaurant Costs
Meals in airport restaurants can be expensive. Try to check both arrivals and departures sides—prices and options can vary a lot.
Be Ready for Delays
Keyword: African Flight Delays
Flight schedules in this region are flexible at best. Always bring snacks, water, and patience. A lot of it.
Travel Reflections
Travel Isn’t Always Glamorous
This day reminded me—world travel isn’t always about beautiful sights. Sometimes it’s just surviving long layovers, bad infrastructure, and tired nights with a baby in your arms.
Our Baby Teaches Us Daily
Sweetie’s curiosity, patience, and joy in small things (like spotting our bag on the tarmac!) remind us why we started this journey. She’s our little compass.
We’re Stronger as a Team
Even without proper sleep, good food, or comfort, we made it through because we did it together. Julie’s calm, my focus, and Sweetie’s spark—we make it work.
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