Discover Antananarivo, Madagascar’s capital. Explore Independence Avenue, scenic viewpoints, and historical sites like Ambohipotsy Church.
Table of Contents
Main Journey
A Refreshing Morning in Antananarivo
Back in Antananarivo, we woke up feeling completely refreshed. The spacious, clean room at Le Lotus Bleu provided us with one of the best sleeps we’d had in a while.
Breakfast at the hotel was simple but satisfying—croissants, baguettes, butter, jam, coffee, and juice. Wanting to do something special for Sweetie, we ordered hot cocoa instead of a second coffee.
When I poured the cocoa into a heavy coffee cup, Sweetie carefully gripped it with both hands and took small, elegant sips—just like a little princess. Julie and I couldn’t help but laugh at the adorable sight.
Starting Our Tour of Tana
At 8:30 AM, we met Dizzy Grandpa outside the hotel. He was already there waiting for us.
Last night, Julie and I had marked several places on the map that we wanted to visit in Tana. But as soon as we got in the car, Dizzy Grandpa suggested starting with Independence Avenue.
Since we had trusted him throughout our trip, we happily went along with his plan for the day.
Events
A City Frozen in Time – Old French Cars and Architecture
Driving through Tana, we couldn’t help but notice the vintage cars everywhere. Most of them had been imported during the French colonial period and were still in use today. Even all the taxis were old French models.
It felt like stepping into a city frozen in the 1960s.
On the way to Independence Avenue, we passed by Saint Michael Theological College, a major institution in Madagascar where many young Christians study. The steep uphill road in front of the school made for a stunning photo.
Independence Avenue – A Quick Drive-Through
After a 10-minute drive, we arrived at Independence Avenue.
But before we could get out of the car, Dizzy Grandpa warned us:
“This area is full of pickpockets. It’s better to see it from the car.”
So, instead of walking around, we drove slowly through the area, taking in the sights.
Madagascar’s Independence Day was approaching, so the streets were decorated with national flags, and vendors were selling more flags on every corner.
We also passed by Antananarivo Train Station, a beautifully preserved structure built by the French. Seeing a Chinatown nearby reminded us once again of China’s global presence.
After making a U-turn in front of the train station, we took one last look at the avenue before heading to our next stop.
A Scenic Viewpoint Overlooking Tana
Dizzy Grandpa then drove us to a scenic viewpoint where we could admire Tana from above.
Before reaching the top, we stopped midway to enjoy the already breathtaking panoramic view of the city.
At the summit, there was a small park where we could walk around. However, a suspicious man approached us, and Dizzy Grandpa immediately stepped in to block him.
From this vantage point, we could see the entire city of Tana, its winding roads, and landmarks. The Angel’s Tower, a monument in the middle of a lake, caught our attention. It was built to honor Madagascar’s young soldiers who were forced to fight and die in World War II under French rule.
Looking closely, we also spotted Saint Michael Theological College in the distance.
Having spent eight days traveling with Dizzy Grandpa, we had never once asked him to take a family photo for us. But since there were many people around, we finally made a request.
He gladly took a picture of us.
We also took a special heart-shaped pose photo with Dizzy Grandpa and Sweetie—our way of thanking him for taking such good care of her.
Unexpected Wedding Car Trouble
On our way down from the viewpoint, traffic suddenly came to a halt.
Looking ahead, we saw that a wedding car had run out of fuel and stalled in the middle of the road.
Since it was Saturday, the car was decorated with balloons, just like wedding cars in Korea. A group of men pushed the car to the side, finally clearing the way for traffic to move again.
No matter where you go, some things are universal!
A Visit to Ambohipotsy Church
Our next stop was Ambohipotsy Church, located on a hilltop.
As we walked toward the entrance, Sweetie curiously asked:
“Where is Jesus?”
We later learned that this site held deep historical significance.
In the early 19th century, Christianity began spreading in Madagascar under King Radama I. However, his successor, Queen Ranavalona I, fiercely persecuted Christians.
Ambohipotsy Church stands as a memorial to Madagascar’s first Christian martyrs, who were executed by being thrown off the nearby cliff.
Hearing this tragic history, we quickly got Sweetie back into the car before she could wander too close to the edge.
Tips for Traveling with a Baby
- Be extra cautious in crowded areas
- Pickpockets are common in places like Independence Avenue, so it’s safer to keep valuables secured and avoid unnecessary stops.
- Choose accommodations with a good breakfast
- Simple but nutritious breakfasts like the one at Le Lotus Bleu make mornings easier when traveling with a baby.
- Be aware of local history before visiting certain sites
- Some places, like Ambohipotsy Church, have tragic histories. Decide in advance whether they are appropriate for young children.
- Take time for scenic viewpoints
- Viewing the city from above is a great way to get a sense of scale without too much walking, which is ideal when traveling with a baby.
Local Travel Tips
- Avoid walking around Independence Avenue
- Pickpockets are common, and locals recommend seeing it from the car instead.
- Watch out for scammers at tourist spots
- Some people may pretend to be friendly but have hidden motives. A good guide can help keep trouble at bay.
- Keep an eye on wedding cars on weekends
- Wedding processions often block roads, sometimes due to car trouble, so expect delays on Saturdays.
- Understand the significance of historical sites
- Places like Ambohipotsy Church have deep, sometimes tragic, meanings. Respect the history and decide whether to visit with children.
Travel Reflections
Exploring Antananarivo revealed a fascinating mix of history, culture, and colonial influence.
- The vintage cars and architecture transported us to a different era.
- The city’s viewpoints offered a fresh perspective on its vastness.
- The history of Christian persecution at Ambohipotsy was sobering.
Tonight, back at our hotel, Julie and I reflected on the day:
- Julie researched more places to visit.
- I wrote down today’s experiences.
- Sweetie continued to surprise us, absorbing new things every day.
Another deep dive into Madagascar’s past, another day of learning and growing as a traveling family.
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