Leaving Jordan with Our Baby: A Night Ferry to Egypt

Our family’s journey from Jordan to Egypt by ferry with our baby—departure taxes, a scary fall, new friendships, and a night at Nuweiba bus station.

Main Journey
Events
Tips for Traveling with a Baby
Local Travel Tips
Travel Reflections

Main Journey

Our time in Jordan had come to an end. It was time to cross the Red Sea and return to Egypt.

At exactly 7:30 PM, our trusted taxi driver arrived as promised in front of the McDonald’s in Aqaba to take us to the port. The sun was just beginning to set as we left the city, casting golden reflections across the Red Sea. In the distance, between two tall white hotels, we could see the border between Israel and Egypt. The right side belonged to Israel, clearly marked by its urban lights.

When we arrived at the Aqaba port, the process began immediately. First, we had to pay the mandatory Jordanian departure tax—10 dinars per person, even for Sweetie. We waited a long time at the tax window because no one was there. After finally paying, we were given several documents that we had to show repeatedly, all the way until we boarded the ferry. We held onto them tightly.

The departure hall was tiled and slippery. While we were waiting, Sweetie was running around and suddenly slipped—falling backwards and hitting her head hard on the floor. It was the kind of fall that makes your heart drop. We panicked for a moment, but she seemed okay. As of writing this, five days later, she’s still full of energy. But it was a scary reminder of how fast things can happen when you travel with a toddler.

Thankfully, we had packed fried rice from a Chinese restaurant near McDonald’s earlier that day. We had bought it thinking it would be a good dinner for Sweetie—and it turned out to be amazing. Perfectly seasoned, full of garlic and green onion flavor, and enough to feed all three of us. The price? Just 4 dinars, tax included. We instantly regretted not eating there sooner during our time in Jordan.

As we waited endlessly for the ferry, I dug through my bag and found 5 leftover dinars. We exchanged them at the port’s money exchange for 100 Egyptian pounds—definitely not the best rate, but useful for what was ahead.

Events

While waiting in the terminal, we overheard a familiar sound: Korean being spoken.

Two Korean men entered the terminal, clearly seasoned travelers. It turned out they had missed the departure tax window, so we guided them to it. They thanked us—and gave Sweetie a small chocolate bar and a can of cola. Just like that, we made new friends.

They were both older than our own parents, but were traveling freely through Jordan, Israel, and Egypt on their own. One of them had even done a world trip when he was younger. We spent time chatting with them about travel, family, and life while waiting for the ferry.

Finally, at 10 PM, an announcement came. We headed toward the ferry with our new companions. Unlike the ferry we had taken from Egypt to Jordan, this one didn’t have a first-class section. Perhaps that’s why the ticket price was cheaper—just $75 per adult. Still, the ferry was large and functional.

We departed at midnight, as scheduled. From the deck, we watched the lights of Aqaba and Eilat fade behind us. It felt symbolic—leaving one chapter of the journey behind and sailing into the next.

At 2:30 AM, we arrived at Egypt’s Nuweiba port.

Upon arrival, we were once again greeted by the tourism police. Just like last time, they escorted us—our family, the two Korean men, and four Chinese travelers—through immigration and customs. We had to buy new visas and go through baggage checks, but the officers never gave back our passports.

We soon realized why.

They were personally taking us to the transportation lot.

Tips for Traveling with a Baby

Always Expect Delays

Especially at borders. Whether it’s waiting for the ferry or dealing with immigration, keep snacks, diapers, and a light blanket close by. Sweetie fell asleep in our arms while we waited for hours in the terminal.

Baby Safety in Terminals

Slippery floors, large crowds, and hard surfaces make ferry terminals a tricky place for toddlers. Bring grippy shoes or keep them seated with distractions like toys or books.

Pre-pack Baby Meals

That fried rice from earlier saved us. When you’re unsure what food will be available, especially late at night, packing a reliable baby meal is a smart move.

Travel with Medicine Just in Case

Sweetie’s fall was scary. Thankfully she was okay, but it reminded us to always have basic first-aid and fever medicine ready while in transit.

Local Travel Tips

Jordan Departure Tax

Everyone must pay it—including babies. It’s 10 dinars per person and must be paid in cash. Don’t misplace the documents you receive.

Ferry Differences

Not all ferries between Aqaba and Nuweiba are the same. The Jordan-to-Egypt route had no first-class section, but the ticket was cheaper. Don’t expect uniform standards in both directions.

Exchange Only What You Need

Exchange rates at the port are not great. Only change what’s essential to hold you over until you find a better rate inside Egypt.

Expect Late Departures

Even if the ferry is scheduled for midnight, delays are common. Be mentally prepared, especially if you’re traveling with a child.

Travel Reflections

That night reminded me how unpredictable world travel can be—especially with a baby.

What started as a routine border crossing turned into an emotional rollercoaster: worry from Sweetie’s fall, joy from unexpected friendships, and amazement at how strangers can show kindness when it’s least expected.

The two Korean travelers left a deep impression. Even more surprising was one of them giving Julie money for Sweetie—saying it was a gift from a grandfather to a granddaughter. We were too flustered to refuse properly and later realized it was a very generous amount. We’re still grateful.

At 3:30 AM, we reached the Nuweiba bus terminal. The only bus to Dahab or Sharm El Sheikh was at 6:30 AM. So we waited.

Then came the final twist. Egypt is one hour behind Jordan. It wasn’t 3:30 AM—it was 2:30 AM. We had four hours of waiting ahead.

Sweetie slept in our arms while we sat on a cold bench, trying not to nod off. We were tired, but also strangely at peace. This was just another part of the journey.

We were back in Egypt, and the Red Sea was waiting.